The Perfect Long Weekend in Cornwall: Coastal Walks, Fresh Seafood, and the Perfect Fowey Base
There’s something about Cornwall that gets under your skin. Maybe it’s the dramatic coastline where cliffs plunge into turquoise water. Maybe it’s the fishing villages that look like they haven’t changed in centuries. Or maybe it’s simply the way the light hits the sea on a clear afternoon, turning everything golden and impossibly beautiful. We spent a long weekend in Cornwall with Fowey as our base, and it reminded us exactly why this corner of England pulls people back time and again. This is our complete guide – from the drive down from London to the coastal walks that took our breath away, with a day trip to Padstow thrown in for good measure. The Drive from London to Fowey Let’s start with the practical bit: getting there. From London to Fowey is roughly 260 miles, which translates to about 5 hours driving in good traffic. The reality? Allow 5-6 hours, especially if you’re travelling on a Friday afternoon or during school holidays. There are two main routes from London to Cornwall, and we’ve tried both: Route 1: M4 → M5 → A30 (via motorways) This is the route most sat navs will suggest. Take the M4 west, join the M5 at Bristol, then pick up the A30 at Exeter. It’s slightly longer in miles (around 280 miles) but entirely on motorway until you hit the A30 in Devon. The advantage is predictability – motorways mean you can maintain speed and estimate arrival times fairly accurately. The disadvantage is monotony. It’s motorway driving for hours. Route 2: M3 → A303 → A30 (the scenic route) This is our preferred option. The M3 from London leads onto the A303, which weaves through Wiltshire and Somerset before joining the A30 in Devon. It’s slightly shorter (around 260 miles) and considerably more interesting. Yes, parts of the A303 are single carriageway where you might get stuck behind a tractor or lorry. But you drive right past Stonehenge (you can see it from the road), through rolling countryside, and the journey feels like part of the holiday rather than just the commute to it. The A30 continues as dual carriageway through most of Devon and Cornwall now, making the final stretch into Fowey relatively straightforward. Once you leave the A30 at the appropriate junction, it’s about 15-20 minutes of smaller roads through lovely Cornish countryside before you reach Fowey. Top tip: Set off early if you can. Leaving London by 6-7am means you’ll miss the worst traffic and arrive in Fowey with most of the afternoon ahead of you. Pack snacks for the car – service stations exist but aren’t frequent once you’re past Exeter. Parking in Fowey: The town has several car parks. We used Caffa Mill Car Park near the Bodinnick Ferry, which costs around £7-9 for the day. Fowey’s streets are narrow and winding – trust us, you’ll want to park and explore on foot. Why Fowey Makes the Perfect Base Fowey (pronounced “foy” to rhyme with “joy” – yes, we got it wrong initially too) sits on the south Cornish coast where the River Fowey meets the sea. It’s small enough to feel like a proper Cornish fishing village, but large enough to have excellent restaurants, good accommodation, and proper facilities. The town cascades down steep streets toward a working harbour where fishing boats moor alongside sailing yachts. Ice-cream-coloured cottages line narrow lanes. Independent shops sell everything from Daphne du Maurier novels (more on her later) to proper Cornish pasties. And the ferry across to Polruan runs every 15 minutes, opening up walks on both sides of the estuary. What makes Fowey special as a base is location. You’re on the South West Coast Path, one of Britain’s most spectacular long-distance trails. Dramatic coastal walks extend in both directions. The town itself is charming enough for lazy afternoons. And you’re within an hour’s drive of most of South Cornwall’s highlights, making day trips perfectly feasible. Why Cornwall is Perfect for Dogs (And Alan’s First Holiday) We brought our mini Dachshund Alan to Fowey when he was just six months old for his very first holiday, and honestly, we couldn’t have chosen a better destination for his introduction to travel. Cornwall has a well-deserved reputation as one of the UK’s most dog-friendly regions, and Fowey exemplified exactly why. Alan had an absolute ball. From the moment we arrived, he was in puppy heaven – new smells, exciting walks, beaches to explore, and plenty of other four-legged friends to socialise with along the coastal paths. Dog-Friendly Beaches Around Fowey Cornwall has over 330 beaches along 250 miles of coastline, and the vast majority welcome dogs. Around Fowey specifically, you have excellent options: Year-round dog-friendly beaches: Polridmouth Cove: Just a couple of hours’ walk from Fowey, this sheltered spot allows dogs all year. At low tide you get two distinct beaches. It’s rarely crowded, and the walk through wooded farm tracks makes it feel like an adventure. Alan loved exploring the rock pools here. Par Sands: About 10 minutes from Fowey with a pay-and-display car park. Popular with dog walkers, and watching Alan charging across the sand, digging holes, and diving into the waves was pure joy. Lantic Bay: Between Fowey and Polperro, this stunning National Trust beach is accessible via the Hall Walk. The half-hour trek from the car park means it stays relatively quiet. The turquoise water and white sand made Alan’s first beach experience genuinely spectacular. Coombe Haven: Within 15 minutes’ walk from Fowey, accessible all year for dogs. Seasonal restrictions (no dogs Easter to 1st October): Readymoney Cove: Just 5 minutes from the beach car park, 20 minutes from Fowey town centre Polkerris Beach: 5 minutes from the car park with a dog-friendly pub Whitehouse Beach: 10 minutes from Fowey car park (only accessible at low tide) The seasonal restrictions are manageable – there are so many year-round beaches that you’ll never struggle to find somewhere for your dog to run. And even the restricted beaches welcome dogs